This is actually a fairly under-utilized plant, which is a darn shame. I love the Chinese Fringe Tree (chionanthus virginicus), partly because it’s just so unusual that its blooms stop people in their tracks. The best advice I can give if you’re on the fence – and lucky enough to live in northern Virginia – is to go take a look at some great specimens in bloom. The photo here was taken the first week of May last year, on the walkway exiting the new Mount Vernon visitors’ center. I was killing time waiting for a landscape contractor to meet me at a site down the road, so I grabbed my camera and got some use out of my annual pass. The squirrels were incredibly fearless. I thought this little guy was going to run right up my pants leg.

Looking to build a pond? That’s a great idea. There’s a whole industry that’s grown up around residential backyard ponds over the last decade, so it’s easier than ever to get your hands on quality components. The basic steps are the same as they’ve always been: dig a hole, make the hole hold water, install a pump and filter, and fill with water.

How deep should you go? It depends on a variety of factors, but generally you don’t want to go too shallow. If you’re planning on having fish, 24 inches is a good depth. If you want to have fancy fish like koi and you want to overwinter them in your pond, 30 inches is about the minimum depth here in Virginia. However, you need to be aware that in many localities anything over 24 inches deep is considered a pool, and you’ll be required to provide a barrier fence around the pond. The illustration above shows a pond with planting shelves, which is a common way of building a pond. Not only does it provide a place for marginal plants, it makes it easier for you and any critters that may jump or fall in to get back out.

The most common means of keeping water in the hole is to use a rubber liner. What I’ve found to work really well is to use a layer of sand, then an underlayment (fabric layer), and then lay in the rubber liner. Rubber liners give you way more flexibility than the hard plastic shells you see at many big box stores, and provide a much more natural appearance.

Your pump and filter are critical to the installation. Not only do you want to make certain that you’re using the best quality pump and filter, they need to be sized appropriately for the amount of water you’re turning over. I recommend avoiding the big box stores, and buying your pump and filter (and other components) from a reputable store that specializes in pond components. Even with the shipping costs, my preferred pond and water garden store is Tranquil Water Gardens. Yes, the owner just so happens to be my brother, but I go for knowledge and value first- so should you.

The last step, filling it with water, is the easiest, but it’s not even worth it if you haven’t planned and shopped appropriately. If all goes well, you can have a beautiful pond like the one I designed for a client in Fairfax County:

The #1 most important thing? Scale. I hate to say it, but the majority of off-the-shelf trellises and arbors you can buy are woefully underscaled. Walk into your average big box store- or even many garden centers- and you’ll see sad, rickety little things made from such small pieces of softwood that they’re joined with staples. Staples!

The fact of the matter is that if you own a home in a populated, suburban area of northern Virginia, your home is probably fairly large for the size of your lot. In looking at the property, you’ll see a large (2000 sq ft+) home that may only have 5-10 feet of property to either side of the house. Proportionately, you’re skewed vertically. Tall is important, but you also need heft, beefiness, oomph. In the above photo (a landscape project in Bristow), my homeowners (who are on their way to becoming certified plant geeks, which I love) had the patio installed before I was part of the process. I was left with a narrow bed, right alongside a blank garage wall. Obviously we were going up and staying narrow, but we needed to offset the mass of the garage. What you see is a trellis made of pressure-treated 2×4 lumber, with climbing hydrangea growing on it. The homeowner built the trellis I designed, and he had the great idea to paint it black. The dark color adds to its visual weight and presence.

Here’s another example. In this case (a landscape project in Aldie), the air conditioner was flanked on either side with shrubs that will screen it quite well, but our property lines were so tight that we had to take the path right up next to the unit. The trellis we built here is narrow, but made from 4×4 posts and 2×2 cross pieces.

This takes us to the other important consideration when buying or building a trellis: material. The least expensive route is pressure-treated lumber. Actually, the least expensive route is untreated lumber, but that would be a tremendous mistake unless you wanted a disposable piece. Pressure treated lumber’s price is an advantage, but its use carries some risks. It’s much more likely to warp, twist, check, or move in a way you won’t want it to. You can see that in both of the examples above, the trellises are made of straight pieces of lumber butted up against one another. The thinner you make a piece of pressure-treated lumber, the more likely it is to move or crack.

Another issue with pressure-treated lumber is that what you buy at the store today- especially the big box home improvement store- is pretty green and wet. You have to allow it to dry out for several weeks before you can stain or paint it.

An excellent choice for building trellises is western red cedar. It’s a durable wood that tolerates exposure to the elements, and it’s much more stable than typical pressure-treated lumber. It’s also much lighter. I built a gate for my house out of pressure-treated lumber last year, and I’ve regretted it every day. This spring I will likely replace it with one made of cedar. Knowing what I know, why didn’t I do that the first time? Cedar is significantly more expensive than pressure-treated lumber. I made a lot of improvements to my landscape last spring and like everyone else, I had a budget. Don’t worry, the wood will get rolled into another project.

What about composite lumber, like Trex, Evergrain, AZEK, or the like? The problem with these choices is that they aren’t inherently structural. They’re not stiff and they’ll sag if not properly supported. So you can build a trellis with pressure-treated lumber for the framing and clad it with composites if you want to create a low-maintenance feature. Just be prepared for the cost- composite lumber is often 2-3 times the cost of pressure-treated lumber.

Trellises are incredibly versatile components of a landscape. They’re great as stand-alone art pieces, but they can serve a variety of functions: screening utility equipment or unwanted views, framing a desirable view, adding a little privacy, or just providing a place to grow a beautiful climber like honeysuckle or clematis. Take a look at what’s out there, but look at it critically and put in something better.

Chuck & Beans, via the Shoebox Blog (click image to go there)

I could lie and say that I have a photographic memory and an encyclopedic knowledge of all things landscape-related. If you believed me, we’d have a frank talk about reality- after I convinced you that “gullible” isn’t in the dictionary.

My dad was a college professor, and so is my wife (please don’t psychoanalyze me), so I have documented, smart-people proof that it’s not knowing the facts, it’s knowing where to go to find them. There are a lot of resources that I use when I’m working on a landscape design or just answering your questions.

First is Google. Seriously, how great is Google? It’s a quick go-to resource for general questions. For example, let’s say I’m designing a backyard and a vendor has a new cultivar I’m curious to try. If they haven’t given me enough info, I’ll hop on Google and look up whether it’s sun or shade, eventual size, and whatever else tells me if it’s a good choice. Google’s not perfect, however. There is also a lot of useless information on Google, much of which is wildly inaccurate. Who can be trusted? First of all, I give the most weight to a website ending with .edu. Colleges and universities are pretty likely to have accurate info, at least for how a plant fares in their area. Big botanical gardens are also a good source. From there, it’s all about checking a couple of sites and seeing who agrees with whom.

Anyone who knows me knows that I love books, so obviously I’m about more than just the online sources. I wrote about some of my favorites in November’s column in the Culpeper Times. I also love magazines. Fine Gardening, Virginia Gardening, Garden Design, and Horticulture are all great. I just recently got turned on to Flower magazine. To be honest, it’s got way more style than substance, but the style is pretty flawless. I plan to pick it up regularly.

Finally, let’s not overlook an important resource: each other. While I trust much of what I read, there’s no substitute for talking to someone who’s done what you want to do. In our high speed, data-rich world it can be easy to forget that this is the best way to pass along information. People talking to people? That’s crazy talk, I know! But get a bunch of gardeners in one space together and just listen. You’ll be amazed what you learn.

I’m a little unsure about posting about a product I’ve never used, but I’m intrigued. The product pictured above is a paver system made by VAST Enterprises. The pavers themselves are made from 95% recycled materials, mostly plastics and rubber. This makes them incredibly light; I put the full-sized (4″x8″) paver on the scale and it weighed in at 1 pound, 6.25 ounces. That’s absolutely amazing. You could haul a pallet of these home in a station wagon, not a dump truck.

The way they work is simple. The base is prepared in a manner similar to a standard paver installation, and then the black plastic grid you see in the photo is laid down. The pavers interlock in the grid, and you can just rock through the installation. At the end, joint sand is swept in, and you’re done.

So where is the advantage with this system? It looks like though base prep is very similar to concrete pavers, the VAST pavers likely go down a lot faster. They’re purported to be durable and fade resistant, and they shouldn’t crack or chip. They can be used in both pedestrian and vehicular applications, and with a modification to the base and joint sands used this product can be used as a permeable paving option. Because they’re so light, they appear to be a good choice for rooftops and decks.

We’ll have to wait to see what the disadvantages are when we see more installations. In a small pattern, they don’t look bad (for a paver- I’m a natural stone guy, usually). I’m curious to see how several hundred square feet look. Also, there’s the issue of cost. These are more expensive per square foot than concrete pavers. The manufacturer asserts that this is made up for with the labor savings; we’ll see.

I don’t mean to sound like I’m pooh-poohing these pavers, because I’m not. Because VAST pavers can contribute to LEED credits for installations, I expect we’ll start seeing these specified on more commercial projects. I’m also intrigued by the benefits they offer for residential use. More and more counties in northern Virginia are cracking down on vast (no relation) expanses of impermeable pavement. I also have a waterfront project on the Northern Neck that I’m starting to design, and outside of a narrow envelope I’m required to use permeable paving. These could be a good solution. If I get the chance to use them in a project, I’ll be sure to document it here.

Besides, you can have a lot of fun with recycled products. MJ bought this for me for Christmas:

If you want one, let me know and I’ll tell you where they sell them. A recycled recycling truck? My head spins!

From time to time, I’ll get a request to design a deck for one of my clients. Decks fall under the whole “anything for the outside of a home” category that defines my business and they’re a lot of fun, so I’m always happy for the challenge. It goes without saying that I believe you should have an experienced professional design your deck, but I know many folks feel confident that it’s a DIY project. Here a few things to take into consideration if you’re taking on a deck:

1- Know the law. In the vast majority of cases, your local town or county is going to want you to come to them for a permit. Don’t skip this step, whether you’re building the deck or a contractor is! Sure, you have to pay for a permit, and the deck will be listed as an improvement to your property on the next tax assessment. But, the folks at zoning are going to make sure that where you want the deck is legal- it’s within the setbacks from the property line, not within any easements, etc. The building folks are going to review the plans to make sure that the deck as proposed will meet code. Making sure you can do what you want to do is the first (if unglamorous) step in the design process.

2- Know what the lumber can do. There are all kinds of tables and calculations that engineers and architects use to determine the loading of a structure. Depending on where you’re located, you probably don’t need to know these. Your county quite likely has a set of typical deck details available at the permit office and online. These deck details cover it all, from posts to beams to joists to railings. It’s your county giving you a big old paint-by-numbers kit. Follow the directions and you’ll have a safe, sturdy deck that complies with the jurisdiction’s codes. Deviate from these and be prepared to show your calculations. Scroll all the way to the bottom of this post and you’ll see links to deck detail packages for cities and counties around northern Virginia.

3- PULL A PERMIT. I don’t care if you’re building the deck or you’re paying someone else; if your municipality says you need a permit, you need a permit. Yes, I know, it’s one more level of government involvement. It’s also a layer of checks and balances. Someone who looks at hundreds of deck plans a year will look at yours to make sure you have a good plan. An inspector will come out to make sure your footers are right, your attachment to the house, your framing, and finally your railings. Trust me, you want a permit, you want inspections, and you want the blessing of the inspector on the final inspection.

4- Don’t get in over your head. I don’t just mean tackling too much by yourself, although I have been in the unpleasant position of realizing that I’m stuck under a beam, there’s no one around, and my cell phone is out of reach. If you’re uncertain that your skills are up to the challenge, there’s no shame in bringing in someone else to do the job. Shoot me an email (there’s a contact link at the top of this page) and I can help point you in the right direction.

Here are the links I promised. (These are what I found on the county websites as of February 21, 2010. If you decide to use these in the design of your project, you MUST call the county permit office to verify that the version you are looking at is the same version that the county is currently using. These links are for informational purposes; I make no guarantees about the information that they contain.)

If you’re building a deck in Prince William County (Manassas, Gainesville, Bristow, Dumfries, Occoquan, Haymarket, etc.) you can find your deck detail package here.

If you’re building a deck in Fairfax County (Fairfax, Clifton, Oakton, Chantilly, Burke, Centreville, McLean, Great Falls, Mount Vernon, etc.) you can find your deck detail package here.

If you’re building a deck in Loudoun County (Leesburg, Middleburg, Purcellville, Hamilton, Brambleton, Ashburn, Sterling, etc.) you can find your deck detail package here.

If you’re building a deck in Stafford County (Stafford, Falmouth, Aquia Harbor) you can find your deck detail package here.

If you’re building a deck in Spotsylvania County (Spotsylvania, Massaponax, Chancellorsville, etc.) you can find your deck detail package here.

If you’re building a deck in Culpeper County you can find your deck detail package here.

I should have done this years ago- this was WAY easier than I thought it would be!

As some of you may know, I design for a couple of nurseries in northern Virginia. This includes coordinating and overseeing planting jobs. While the plants are generally top quality, it’s inevitable that warranty issues crop up. This has led me to consider where I stand on plant warranties.

I’m not a fan. I think they increase the cost to the consumer unnecessarily, and can cause friction between the buyer and the company that did the planting.

Here’s the deal: I make certain that the plants that are installed are healthy and of good quality, if I’m managing a project. Occasionally something will shock pretty hard (this happened with some Daphne ‘Carol Mackie’ last spring), and we’ll replace it just to be safe. So, the idea is that when the installer leaves, you have healthy, robust, viable plants.

After we’re gone? Who knows what happens? Obviously improper watering is the most common reason a plant dies. Most plant warranties have a long list of exclusions including improper watering, damage from animals, vandalism, weather, acts of God, etc., etc. That’s all well and good, but I’ve found that a lot of reasonable folks ignore that section of the contract and ask for a replacement when the neighbor’s dog ran over the shrub, or their irrigation flooded the bed for the two weeks they were in Germany, or they noticed the plants looking “buggy” but let it go until whitefly had almost killed the plant…

Reasonable people. Honestly. These are folks who would never dream of of taking a CD back to Target for a new one because their kid used it as a frisbee and scratched it all to heck. People who wouldn’t return their car to the dealership because they noticed a little oil leaking in the driveway but let it go till the engine seized. And yet I’ve gone to inspect plants for warranty requests and I can see the tire tracks going through the bed- lilacs don’t just snap in half without help!

This is why I would personally rather see plant warranties go away, and companies move to a model of plant replacement coverage. Basically, it’s like the add-on you can purchase for your new DVD player at Best Buy. If you believe that you’re being sold a quality plant, and you will provide the care necessary to sustain that plant, waive the additional coverage and save some money (use it to buy more plants!). On the other hand, if you’re planting hydrangea to look pretty for your 4th of July BBQ and they may not survive your trip to the Outer Banks the next week, buy the coverage!Let’s be honest, if a landscape company warranties all their plant material, the cost of replacement is factored into the final retail price. Wouldn’t it be great to save some money if you know you’re going to take care of your investment?

Everyone and their brother does a favorite plant, plant of the week, etc. I decided to change it up a little and present the plants a little differently. I used to love the detailed background info that came with my action figures when I was a kid, so I took the idea of a personnel dossier and applied it to my plant profiles. Here’s the first one:

I’m a fan of Otto Luyken laurels as a good, solid structural plant in the landscape. They’re quiet and unassuming, but with their broad, glossy evergreen leaves they provide a rock-solid base for your landscape year round. They are the bass player of the rock band.

The button has been up on the blog for a while, but I finally feel confident enough to take the plunge and start using Twitter on a regular basis. MJ gave me a crash course on how it all works, Twitter etiquette, and all the important pointers. Let’s do this!